I've got my girl! Dana came into town this afternoon, and now we're being night owls: hoot, hoot... She's living in the night and sleeping in the day. 12 hours time difference will do a number on a sister. We've got several hours to kill before once again flying out. It'll be another solid days travel, but beaches and bungalows lie at the end of this day. Actually, it'll be more like mid-day, but considering it's 2am now, it'll be a full day's travel. How wonderful it is to be together again. We want to wish everyone a very safe and happy New Year!

I have settled in this morning to catch up on some correspondence. It is amazing how much of one's time is spent planning while traveling. Unfortunately, you cannot just walk in any door and have a seat or a room. No problem really it's just the details. Sometimes those details are a bit overwhelming though. For those of you that don't know Dana was not allowed to leave New York as planned a couple days back. She was supposed to leave New York on December 23rd. Having completed everything necessary to leave and sleeping very little she arrived at the airport only to be told she could not board the plane becuase there was a tear in her passport. Wow, welcome to patienceville in a hurry, eh? Five months we haven't seen each other, and the latest obstruction has been a tear in a piece of paper. I do not want to go off on what I think about the security the world over. Although, I think there is a lot of wasted efforts. Yes, people hate imperialists nations then you have to spend the rest of your money defending yourself. Try putting more money into education. If even a fraction of what is being spent on current "Defense" measures was converted to education, see what the results could be. I dare anybody give it a shot. See if there is anything happening at your local public schools. See how you might be able to make a difference. Try to change the meaning of orange alert to an enchroaching finger painter!

With all that being said, I have anxiously been awaiting Dana's arrival. The anticipation has been great. The other night I even could not sleep, and for those of you who know me, this is odd. I woke up at midnight after 90 minutes sleep and I eventually resigned myself to watching the Packers vs. Raiders. Granted it turned out to be an amazing performance for Brett Favre who's father passed away less than 24 hours prior. What to do. I didn't want to be awake, but the excitement of it all was too much. Dana is coming to town; she has resolved her torn passport, and she's somewhere over the continental US as I type. Soon she'll be crossing the Pacific headed to Bangkok by way of Hong Kong. I breath, I type, I listen to new music, I anticipate.
I wish the absolute best of this holiday season for all of you, albeit Channukah, Christmas, Kwansa, and a happy New Year.

While going through my messages this morning I came across another story that Josh sent me. Enjoy:

An ambitious student comes to see his zen master. As soon as he sits down, the teacher asks, "What is the basic human problem?".
The student ponders this then answers: "We're not awake."
The teacher says, "Yes, but those are just words. You're just thinking." He rings the bell and sends the student away.
Perturbed, the student is determined to figure it out. A week later he returns.
The teacher says, "Well have you figured out the basic human problem?"
The student replies, "Yes, the basic human problem is that we think too much. We are identified with our thinking. We believe our thoughts."
The teacher answers "Again, you are just thinking. you have to see the basic human problem in yourself." Again, the student is dismissed.
Determined to solve the problem, he pulls out all the books, and reads everything he can on the subject. When he returns to the teacher he is almost strutting he is so sure he has the answer now.
Seeing the state he is in, the teacher asks the question. And the student replies, "There is no problem!"
The teacher stares at him and says "Then what are you doing here?" In that moment the student deflates, shoulders drop, face turns red, he feels totally humiliated.
Peering at him, the teacher asks: "What are you experiencing right now?"
Without looking up the student replies: I feel like crawling in a hole."
The teacher explains: "IF YOU CAN FULLY EXPERIENCE THIS FEELING, THEN YOU'LL UNDERSTAND THE BASIC HUMAN PROBLEM."

I arrived in Bangkok this morning about 6am. No problems cruising through immigration, baggage claim, customs, and the line for taxis was the most orderly since I left New York. It was easy getting to the hotel, hassle free. And, once I arrived I thought I had the Royal Suite 90 sq. m. for $30/night. Well, almost, I had it this morning, but after my nap I came down and they asked me to change rooms. I didn't understand the Royal Suite thing was temporary, the language barrier is a bit thicker here than in India. Alas, I have a fantastic room at a good rate, and I am off to explore this new country I've just arrived in. Hopefully, I'll be able to meet up with a friend of a friend, Ed by way of Tamara; also, I found out our friends Paul and Court are soon to be in town. These last several days without Dana are going to fly by. The excitement keeps getting better and better.

There is however some sad news to report. My bag was rummaged through yesterday, and my music player was taken out of my possesion. It is sad. I had shifted my bag to some friends' room, and there was one other person that went in for sure. It's terrible when everyone says they had nothing to do with it. I believe there is a special place for all lying people. I wish them the best. It's really ashame they didn't think to take the charger also. Because now, they're in possesion of an amazing music device, with my earwax still on the headphones, that will last another one to two hours. And, they'll be pretty hard pressed to find the right adapter. In other words what was a great music player has become someone else's paperweight with my inscription on the back: "Adam Aronson: Around the World." It made it half-way, bon voyage IPOD.

What's a boy to do with himself when he finds himself standing upright. My body is slowly becoming accustomed to being recognized. Gone are the days of kicking heels on the sidewalks worldwide, well, maybe anyway. Amazing how a bit of breathing will bring one’s center out of the clouds heading directly for the belly. I like to think of it that way, anyhow. I am in process. There is that stretch hibernating animals stay in so long as the body is waking, I am somewhere near there. YAWN. The retreat was fantastic.

Ten days witnessed through eyes always opening wider. It was a wonder to see the beauty in the world, anew. Watching bicyclists or roaming water buffalo, the world was in motion. This world is one that I am quite partial to. There are so many wonderful fancies to explore; this will remain true until the end. I feel vibrant, and my head may be emerging from the clouds. Gone are the days of walking with my feet on the ground and my head in the clouds. I want to see through the clouds or wherever there is a sight to see. From yoga in the satsang hall last week to the set of a Bombay commercial set I am traveling. Friends are all around and everybody is in motion.

It has been nice to relax in Bombay a bit. The mosquitoes are fierce, but the swaying palm trees and sinus drying sun help wonders. Lucknow has been cold, so some time in the sun is thoroughly enjoyable. In a few days time it will be onward to Bangkok with enough time to prepare for Dana’s arrival as well as adjust to yet another country. It has been quite interesting and informative learning about cultural practices, of course food included.

I send all my love to the eyes crossing these words!

Five days of yoga and my body is opening up. My flexibility has increased substantially, and my mind disappears at times as body and breath synchronize. Other times, the pain distracts my attention, and it reminds me how much I dislike pain. Although, the quiet times far outweigh the discomfort. Yoga has much value in this retreat as I have found reprieve from distractions.

Time has not had much meaning lately as I have been living in the moment. When my mind begins to reel there is some control to be exerted over it. Unwanted thoughts, troublesome burdens, evaporate like water. And, I remain present. Slowly, I am awakening into the present.

The last version of the passover haggadah I read began with God stating: "Here I am." Today, I say the same, "Here I am." I am present, I am alive, I am peaceful, and above all, I am happy.

Perhaps there is a place of origin where there are no questions; this I can understand. I have been there for brief periods, but it is not a space I continually occupy. At least, not the way I am hearing its description. Regardless, there are always questions for the mind, and these excite me. In themself the questions do have validity even if they're separate from a consciousness that lies underneath everything.

Where is a place without questions? Mom once said to me that at some point there are no more questions. She told me this many years ago. I didn't believe her. Yesterday, I was given a similar response to my enquiring. Papaji's mantra was 'Be Quiet'. This is quieting the mind, the body, and the ego as I understand. All of these things interfere with the present; reality interferes with the present. This is what I understand from the discussions, readings, and videos we've taken in. Where is this place with no questions. How can everything disappear?

I'm compassionate for the suffering of others. No matter how present I am that will always exist. Even if I was connected to core of all beings, they would still be suffering. Perhaps they're not really suffering and it's a perception that they are. Although, it does seem there are other beings and that some of them suffer. How could I ignore them when I myself have everything that I need?

There is a question, a rather heavy one, that came up again yesterday that I have been asking for some time. A while back I began asking people, even the first time that I met them, "who are you?" Most people would jerk their heads at this. Many of them thought me crazy. Other times it would form a wonderful connection even if only for that conversation and never seeing each other again. The question came yesterday; although, it was pointed in the opposite direction. As in the past when I was done asking the question it always turned around. Still, I am not sure how to answer the question. I am approaching this moment a little differently, and perhaps I am able to see a new side of honesty.

For people reading this please understand that I am trying to piece together the so many things that are happening right now. I am not however maintaining regular email correspondence. I will be checking next Monday evening or so. Please know that I love you all.

It began with introductions and a loosely based schedule, dinner, and a video. I have joined a retreat. Last night was very restful. Only finding 90 minutes of sleep the night before was a bit overwhelming by yesterday's end. It was one of the more 'productive' days I had perhaps ever. With all work things in order, I feel satisfied to begin standing back from the day to day, and look a bit closer inside. The work I began this past week has been very rewarding as it is consolidating a great many areas of interest for me. Because I will not be in Lucknow for much longer, I have decided to spend some time next week working on the project. Although, my efforts won't likely meet this past week's. Now, I am very earnest in trying to remove distractions; oddly, I consider the database project to be not a distraction, rather my concentration is pleasantly deep there.

At the end of schedules and questions we sang a chant before dinner. Raja, a local pujari at the Hanuman temple led us. Eventhough, I had been with mostly the same people in other circles and listened to them sing, I had not connected with what they were doing. When Raja began lastnight, I felt a new trust. There was no judgement, there was no misunderstanding, and I followed him as he led us into the chant. I didn't understand everything that we were singing, and I couldn't make out some of the words. Later, I asked Raja to explain to me what exactly we were singing, and word for word he went through the chant with me. He also offered an easier chant to begin with.

From the moment I met Raja he held out his arms and greeted me in loving brotherhood. It was really beautiful. The connections I have here with various people start in such a different place then when I have been elsewhere. It is in the moment.

There is a great word used frequently here in Satsang Bhawan, shanti. It means peace in Hindi. Our environment is shanti. Being is shanti.

This afternoon I am heading for a 10 day silent retreat. Although, this past week I have completely engulfed myself in very fascinating work. I am in the process of helping develop software for Organic India's Lucknow factory. The process has been comprehensive and very educational. We'll have to see how quiet I'll remain. My attention is being pulled in different directions, and I'll try to resolve this while resting as much as possible. For those of you I don't contact in the next bit I will be with you soon. For the time being I have put up a new face to my web presence. Peace.

Life in Lucknow is really great. We just returned lastnight from Azamgarh. We were there for the Tulsi Mahotsav that Organic India, Bhavani and Bharat's company, hosted. There were over a thousand people in attendance with farmers, their families, and staff to celebrate the end of the Tulsi cultivation for this year. There were a couple local politicians to bring grace and good blessings to the vision of the company. Several recognition awards were presented, and then there was lunch and a band offering a cultural program. Unfortunately, I slept away most of the afternoon trying to ward this sinus infection I developed, but such is life.

The factory in Azamgarh is very well developed. Dayael, a friend of Bhavani and Bharat's from Lucknow, and I took a tour early Sunday morning. We were shown how the Tulsi is brought into the sterile environment. The Tulsi is cleaned in two baths, it is dehydrated, it is sorted, then it's bagged. Wow, we walked into the storeroom, and the smell of Tulsi is positively overwhelming. This herb has been given star status by Organic India and Dr. Narendra Singh. There has been much written about Tulsi.

Things are exciting and busy here. I have began working with Organic India to help develop their website as well as offer some suggestions for software being designed in house. I have had a really great time getting to know the people that work for Organic India, but also understanding the working mission! They are in the process of building an exceptional company with a holistic approach to business.

Happy Thanksgiving to those celebrating! India is pretty quiet about that one. It was a different story yesterday for Eid, the feast for the end of Ramadan. There were many extra treats on hand to add to the birthday celebration yesterday. That's right, I had a fabulous birthday with friends and family here in Lucknow. I have made my way south from Rishikesh by way of 36 hours in Dehli, and I think I am going to stay here for a while. Tentatively planning to go to Goa at the begining of next year with Dhanni, I may put off my visit with the monks until then. It seems as though I have put myself about as far away as possible from them at this time. C'est la vie.

So, many things cooking in the travel fire at the moment, but it all has been built on a fantastic foundation of sweets. I had a record five different deserts yesterday to help celebrate my biffday yesterday, the last of which literally took the cake, an Applespice cake with almonds on top. Thank you Raju.

Rishikesh was a wonderful mix of friendships, rest, the Ganga, exploration, reading, eating, stomach bugs, and all the other stuff that fills the details along the journey. I will probably be returning there in January to attend Dhanni's sister's wedding. Then maybe some more time in Dehli. I have the possibility of studying Kashmiri cooking with a chef, Trilochan, for a month. Wow, I am honestly begining to admit I've caught the India bug. Many times people along the way have asked, "How many times have you been to India?" Naturally, my answer is one, and they often count off about their revelations and numerous journeys. Well, if I come back count me amongst their ranks. It looks like it could happen. My visa is good through April, and we'll just have to see about it.

Tomorrow we're off to Azamgarh, that is where Organic India's main herb farm is located. It is the end of the harvest, and there will be a celebration perhaps numbering 5,000. There will be many people to meet and greet as well as, ha ha, more sweets. More detais to come.

Time is counting down until I am with Dana again! This is a very fine thing by my estimation. Beaches, bungalows, and mai-tais oh my!

What a bizarre turning of events has happened today. Dhanni kept asking me for the past several days to watch the cricket match happening today. And, I explained I would catch it on the train on my way to Varanasi. Well, the opportunity to change directions again presented itself today, and I made a change. At least, I thought I had made a change. A later questioning friend, Dhanni, asked how long the other people, who I had agreed to meet up with in Manali, would be staying there. In a phone call sometime later they said they would be leaving the earliest day we could arrive. Hum, what to do. Some days back I wondered whether I was ready to leave Rishikesh. And, perhaps this is the way it should have ended. Dhanni and I are now discussing travelling around this area between some different villages. Life is pretty natural and comfortable becuase of the hills and their bounty. We look forward to a great few days adventuring, and there was also some mention of a local Djembe maker. I would love to learn to play with some rythym. Drums are excellent.

I hope this entry finds people well and cared for.

Internet connectivity has been spotty at best. I am up in the foothills, and apparently everybody has the same idea at different parts of the day, clogging up all the available bandwidth. Nobody here has satellite connections, and it seems like there is enough demand that a cafe with five computers could make a killing. Capitalistic endeavors aside I have been having an amazing past week here in Rishikesh. I tried to put up a post several days ago, alas, I was unsuccessful.

I met a local guy named Dhanni, and he and I have been trapsing around the area seeing the best of what's around. One day I rented a bicycle as he already had one, and we made our way several kilometers up the road then treked into the hills a couple kilometers with much climbing to see a waterfall. Wow, it was pristine, and the water was fine. I was ready to dive in the moment I saw it, the combination of high altitude, bright sun, and drenching sweat prepared me for the crystal water; although, wisely, he suggested it would be better for the health to cool off first in the shade. Yea, so he was right, but I got that amazing dip in the water! Never too cold, not at least to get in and out... Still, if I could have gills, I would take them. Since that's not going to happen, I'll take my opportunities to enjoy a nice swim.

Then, two days back we rented a jeep and headed up into the hills with the intended destination of Kanjapuri. It is a temple atop the tallest foothill in the area here. From there we watched an amazing sunset, and I also got my first glimpse of the Himalayas. On our way up we stopped in a village to do some walking and sightseeing. As we were on a particular hill I noticed some schoolkids playing what appeared to be soccer, and I asked Dhanni if we could go take a look. We headed down to the school. We were warmly received by the principal and some teachers. As was customary they offered us tea, and it just so happens they had Jelabees there. Jelabees are by far and away my favorite Indian sweet. It is a pastry like dough that is fried in oil then the result is rolled in a sugary syrupy creation. The result is bliss. That's the best for the sugar lover in me.

I thought my time here would be spent doing some yoga, but that is not the way that it has gone. Dhanni introduced me to some members of his village yesterday and we enjoyed some really amazing dishes since he invited me to dinner. His village is highly functional and the people are all quite warm towards each other. Especially when everyone is watching cricket. The Assie's were beating up on the Indians last night. I didn't go back to see the conclusion after dinner because I needed rest, but google News just confirmed my suspicions, India was beaten (not that I have loyaties). Cricket has been fascinating to learn about, and I actually enjoy watching the sport.

I arrived Haridwar this morning. The train from Dehli left problemlessly, and the train station posed no threat as I entered with ticket in hand. As retribution I got to waive off everysingle person that asked if I needed assistance. Oh well, some lost friends, perhaps. Had the opportunity to delve into Alexander McCall Smith's second installment of the No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency, 'Tears of the Giraffe'.

Arriving in Haridwar I had not made arrangements for accomodations, but I knew the city was busting with hotels, and relative to other places it could be cessed out on foot. How's that for everyone that knows how anal I am about planning? I'm beginning to come into my own here in India. Travelling is taking on a very relaxed feel for me, and I am comfortable to make my way around and see what is available. Tourist Bureau can be quite helpful for the this that and the other that guidebooks don't always offer. A nice complement for successful travel.

After settling into the cozy 'City Heart' hotel, with a great rooftop terrace Haridwar became my oyster. I took a ride on the chair lift that quickly climbed the hill to the temple on the hill, Mandevi something or another. It was Hindu kitsch. Either that or I am at a complete loss for the meaning. It is so odd to want to offer a religious service immediately followed by a requested donation. The effect seems lost to me.

The particular reason I chose to stay here in Haridwar before moving along to my intended destination was to witness the aarti. This is everynight at sunset that the Ganga (Ganges if you like) is revered for its holiness. It was a beautiful ceremony. The blarring speakers could have been a bit clearer. I learned the hymn for puja while in Lucknow. The tune cares a nice melody, but tonight it was a bit staticy. The farm version and the Ganga version differ each with their own charm.

So, I am headed into the foothills, and from tomorrow forward I will attempt to clear my head with a bit of yoga, trekking, perhaps rafting, and other activities like reading. Without constantly being told to read and decided how I want to occupy my time I have taken a fancy to reading. I am thoroughly enjoying reading a variety of topics. Although, David, I have to tell you, I am having a hell of a time getting through Development as Freedom. Amatrya Sen has me at a loss for the way he articulates himself sometimes. People have said the same for what I said, so on my more focused days I try to delve a bit further there.

The air here can't be cut with a knife like Dehli, and I undoubtedly will not be going out like I have for the past several nights. There's a time and a place for everything, and this time happens to be quite mindful.

This past week has been nothing short of spectacular. With the help of some Ayurvedic herbs, Ashwagandha and a formulation called Immunity, I have apparently come back to full health. Sinus infections are not particularly exciting in any way. New York is quite the haven for us southern sufferers in this regard. Season tend to help these matters or perhaps it’s the lack of humidity. I’m not really sure, but I will settle for the annual cold over the recurring sinus infection. In New Orleans, it was just a matter of time for me as I recall. My parents may tell the story better than I. They have a better memory for that sort of thing.

Lucknow finds me healthy and happy. Since Monday I have been practicing Yoga. After one session, I told the teacher, Bhavani, that it something I threatened to begin for some time now. She replied to the effect that I had already started. Simple as that, in this time and this space I’ve found something I really like. I also really like riding a bicycle. Unfortunate for her, Bhavani developed a bit of a stomach bug yesterday after Yoga, and she took day off and plans to rest tomorrow as well. This brings me to the bicycle as they have a workout room here at the farm. Convenient is the sitting bicycle with the adjusting seat. This came at far greater ease than attempting to travel with cycle; although, the roads here would not be conducive to road cycling in the slightest. One road of interest cuts through a wooded area thereby bypassing a substantial amount of road, I assume. This road has some Lucknow history it was built by a governmental official or perhaps public service person I do not recall precisely. The first time I saw this road was at night en route to the farm. However, it stuck with me because of its twists, turns, and greenery. Perhaps I’ll snap some photos for my soon to arrive enhanced website.

When I return from Dehli next week, I hope to raise my presence on the internet. It’s a project in the works, and I desire something appealing. With any luck, technician will meet creative and broaden my presentation. After all there is 78” to represent, or even more if you count more than a body. Lately, I have thought about the Mind, Body, Ego, Self assembly. Ford would be proud to see the old factory line applied to damn near anything. So, it’s been a really good question. Not that there’s just one.

I would like to share a koan that I’ve been asked to contemplate. Now, I am entering a space where the subject is more familiar (sorry, I don't have the version quote in Mark Epstein's 'Thoughts Without a Thinker'):

Bodhi originally has not tree
The mirror also has not stand
Buddha nature is always clear and pure
Where is there room for dust

Thank you Josh for your patience with my endless questions.
The road has no beginning, there is no end; even, there is no road.
The road is as the path, a non-changing form.

Each meal has proven to be great in its own right so far; although, I'm fairly sure not all of it has agreed with me. How's that for a one-sided affair? Well, I knew my stomach would be leading much of the adventure. True to form. I've been enjoying omelettes the past two mornings, and the fresh shaven carrots and sliced tomatoes are orginating from the organic farm I'm staying on. I'm currently visiting my relative Bhavani in Lucknow, India. We're having a delightful time getting acquainted with one another. We've only met once before to memory. I am trying to slow my way and see what's around me. I don't like my head to spin all of the time. Perhaps I'm seeing more of the picture. And I'm not exactly sure how to the define the picture.

Taking the morning off from the adventures of the streets. Agra is tourist craziness. From marble shops to the stories of restraunts intentionally posioning people, I've heard, seen, discussed, and lived parts of all of it. Lonely Planet published a bit in their India how restraunts were involved in a racket whereby people would be posioned and then sent to "clinics". Thankfully, nobody was killed by this tourist trick of the most noble variety; however, several doctors and restraunts were put out of business. People talk about it, and one rickshaw driver even tried to steer us away from our chosen restraunt. We told him we were fairly confident in our choice. Advice has the weight of a grain of salt around these parts. Except in certain places. The guesthouse I've stayed in the past two evenings has been incredible. Unlike most other places this hotel refuses to dole commisions to the rickshaw drivers. So, naturally the drivers will attempt to dissuade you from visiting the establishment. It's trully unfortunate that the transportation folk are so far down on the scale because you never really have the opportunity to engage in a sincere interaction. Everything boils down to the almighty, dollars.

People will pretend for an entire to be your friend and speak for their own honesty, repeatedly. When you simply want to go home, they keep pushing for the stores, the keep pushing for arrangements for the following day. It's all very off putting. Although in a more exciting turn of events last night, my new found travelling friend for the day, Michael and I went out for dinner. When we returned home the rickshaw driver concerned us because he was so small trying to push us rather stocky tourists. He couldn't have weighed more than 50 Kilos, and the two of us probably rang in at 200+ Kilos with the weight of the bike included. So Michael and I got to take turns driving the rickshaw with our driver in back. He was slightly taken aback at our offer; however, he easily conceded to letting us do this. With hand motions for directions we made our way back to the hotel.

Yesterday was one of those really great non-stop days. I woke at 7:30 to be ready for the bus to a nearby town, Fatepurh Sikri. I had a great breakfast, and then the hotel told me they would not be running their bus to the town becuase not enough people had signed up for that day. Fine, no problem, re-group, finish reading the newspaper, and I thought to clear up my confusion about my train ticket. Well, turns out that the ticket I bought was not valid for today, rather it was good for the day I purchased it, Monday. Well, things were starting to look down a bit, then a guy at the counter was asking for the bus to Fatepurh Sikri. Since I hadn't really spoken to anybody on Monday except my rickshaw driver, and I've already espoused my opinion on them, it was pleasant to make the company of a fellow traveller. Michael is on holiday travelling from Sydney. It was funny to learn the most common question he receives is whether or not he likes cricket. Yea, really big over here, and Australia currently has one of the strongest teams in the world. So we joked about it because he really hates the sport.

From the reception area at the hotel we made our way to the bus station, by foot. This was amazing because tourists walking get about as much attention as a topless woman would in the streets of New York. People are always trying to topple you. "Very Cheap." "No, you can't, it's too far." What do you mean I can't get out of my way. Many times I've entertained strolling roadside conversations. I suppose the effect is lost that they are barking up the wrong tree. Anway, back to positive travelling.

We made our way to the bus; we made the one hour journey then we were on to this beautiful town. It was built about 40km away from Agra and rumored to have been abandoned for a lack of water. It was phenomenol. There was a beautiful mosque with some of the most intricate marble screen work I've every seen. Some of the panels took four years to be carved by one individual. A very interesting site was to see the very small tombs next the larger one of the town's holy family. These were for the carrier pigeons. Once we were outside, sure enough there were some hundreds of little arch shaped alcoves for the birds to perch in. The victory gate entrance to the mosque was 54m tall and quite impressive. The red sandstone out front was so hot one couldn't standstill on it. The guide also told us the white people didn't come there in the summer time because the sun overwhelmed them. I could see that happening.

Then we took the tour of the abandoned city, had a great walk through the small local market; we picked up some fruits to snack on and waited for the bus back. We returned to Agra around 16:00 I went for the train station took care of my arrangements there. And, when I returned to the hotel they told me Michael had left two minutes prior. We spoke about meeting up to go out for dinner. The hotel has a lovely courtyard and all, but I wanted a change of scenery; something I was more willing to do with company. So, I start running down the street, no Michael. Resigned to having missed him I start ambling back to the hotel, and sure enough he goes slowly moving along past me on a rickshaw. I callout and he has the bike pulled over. And, in one of the most free feeling moments yet in my travel I asked if I could join him, and we went off on our way to the restraunt. There are so many factors going into daily decisions, and it was nice to know that I wanted to go a certain direction. The only source I needed to consulte was myself. This moment in my travels really resonated well with me.

We went for a place with a rooftop view of the Taj. It wasn't possible to see too much, only a shilouette, but it was nice to have that change of scenery. We met a lovely girl travelling from Israel. She had wanted to come to India for reasons she couldn't explain. She had been in Nepal with her husband and he had no interest in India, so she did this leg alone. The three of us had plesant conversation over dinner then went for a beer and called it a night. Oh, yea, and the restraunt owner also fed me an entire line of shit about being able to charge what he wanted for beers. At least, that's what a government sponsored advert in the paper this morning told me. There is a law here governed by the department of measurements whereby a Maximum Retail Price is printed on nearly everything. Only, at this restraunt last night the MRP had been scratched off the bottles leading to my enquiry.

It's been a good time in Agra. I made my way to some of the major sites, I've seen some commercial marble, got food and rest. Soon, I'll make my way for rickshaw-bus-rickshaw-train-car-rest. Another great 12 hour travel day. But, then, I'll be with Holly and I hear the food in Lucknow is exceptional, yea!

So, as if any true ADVENTURE could be without Drama, this morning was not exception. I got up at 4:30am no problem. I was out the door for a bit past 5. I made it to the train station with about 30 minutes to spare. Great, I'm thinking. Anshul told me to show up a bit further in advance to purchase my tickets. But, I figure, time is not really an issue. I'll just find the ticket window and resolve that, only then to merrily make my way to the train.

Um, well, there was no window to purchase tickets other than the "Second Class" ticket windows, so I didn't think I would be able to purchase the ticket I wanted to get, an A/C chair... Well, guys start flocking to me, come this way, come that. 15 minutes pass, and I'm beginning to get a bit desperate, so I head for the office across the street. I'm passed off into a shoehorn stairway where a guy in a non-descript office offers me train tickets. He pulls out the India Railways book, he shows me my train and seat prices. Then he tries to make a call. Speakerphone for me to hear "India Railways, information..." Then he begins to have a brief conversation only to tell me the ticket and the alternative I chose were not available. He then tries to sell me an Indrail 60 pass, my mistake for thinking it was 800 Ruppees, it was clearly printed in USD. Anyway, I said to try for a seat on the later train, the Taj Express, and low and behold that was sold out too. He proposes that I take a luxury bus, and I immediately grab my bag at this suggestion. I'm back off to the train station for one last hope at finding a ticket.

I see two other gringos getting the royal treatment, and they were trying to figure out which track for Hardiwar, and they were not able to help me so I kept moving. No hope for finding a ticket, so I head for the train. The M-F-ing train is empty. There's about 10-15% of the seats taken. So, I try to get some info out of some guys, they were little help with minimal English. So, I walk into a car where I meet a great guy, have I mentioned to anybody reading this that I'm bad with names? I've forgoten his name, but he was a wonderful guy that was in India for some family weddings, and he's lived in Seattle the last 20 years. His fluent Hindi helped me address the "Ticket Taker" (that's what his badge said). The ticket taker returns with the exhorbitant suggestion of 1500-1600 Ruppees for taxing me, and my new friend says that it is more the 500% of the ticket price pointing out that it was unacceptable. Low and behold the ticket taker said he would consult with his superiors, and despite the fact that he sat next to me for some portion of the trip he never raised the issue again.

I'm here. Here is in Agra for a couple nights, then I'll be on my way to visit family in Lucknow. I'm very excited about validating the rumors I've heard regarding the regions' cuisine. More to come buckaroos.

The hosts that I am staying with grew up in Srinigar. Although, they have repeatedly dissuaded me from visiting there because of the war torn aspect. And, sadly, I couldn't quite get everything together quick enough to visit Leh. I fear a combination of it being unsuitably cold and also expensive for one to travel alone through the Ladakh area I am going to settle for travelling through the southern part of the Himalayas and perhaps trek to where the four sacred hindu rivers originate after Diwali.

Tomorrow, I am going to wake and head for Agra. I'm going to see the Taj and a couple palaces. Then I'll head to Jaipur for a couple days and return to Dehli for Diwali, the Hindu New Year (Sat. Oct 25th). Some friends have invited me over a nice dinner and we can all witness the city be encompassed in smoke from all the fire crackers. I've heard quite the many wonders about it.

I'm having such an amazing time, and currently, I am trying to arrange to go to Leh, in the Himalayas. It will be getting very cold there soon; however, I could take the rest from sweating my F-ing balls off each day, every day.

I would be traveling with this guy Case, he's Dutch, and good friends with Prashast. He lives in Paris now working for Le Monde as an entertainment photographer. So, he and his hasselblad are going to head to Leh with me probably taking an active interest in the methodology. He teaches color processing at Parsons if it is testament to his work... Very interesting guy.

Sarah, dad's friend from New York, owns a spinning club here in Dehli. So, I'm going to try and run myself out of breath tonight... I've never done spinning before. It ought to be a good exercise. Also tonight, our buddy Kilian is leaving town. He has been here traveling for four months. He'll head back to Paris to settle some affairs, one week; then he'll head back to Brazil for one year of sabbatical. Artists, right? Always searching for inspiration, the flavor. It's been really nice getting to know a bit about him in the 10+ days I've been here.

Prashast is also a really cool cat. He's doing his artist thing. In full motion, thou he is, he's not sure for which direction. Although, his legs keep moving, and there's always ground beneath his feet.

Case's other friend Keith is in town for the International Indian Film Festival. He was co-director of cinematography for a film called 'Beyond the Soul'. It's an interesting film shot on location in India and the US. We saw the screening yesterday and were impressed. Also at the festival is a Lars Van Trier retrospective. Last night everyone went to see Dancer in the Dark. I was not present as I had had quite my fill of spinning wheels for the day. The other day, however, I watched DogVille with Nicole Kidman. It was an interesting film if not tedious at points.

Speaking of last night, I had left the house to wait outside for a friend to pick me up, and I received another lesson in IST (not Indian Standard Time, so much as Indian Stretching Time). The only way to return to the house and make a call would be to ring the bell and wake someone to let me in. This is the way I have been returning in the evenings; admittedly, I feel for disrupting anybody's rest to let me in. Alas, there was no spare key to be found. Thus, I found myself walking in the Golf Links Colony, all neighborhoods here are described as colonies, and often times there will be a gate that one must pass to enter; typical subdivision behavior. During my stroll I passed a home with a gentleman smoking on his porch. I approached his guard at the gate. Nearly everyone in these subdivision has several people to overlook the house from the inside and out, constantly. We had a difficult time understanding each other, and eventually he agreed to let me ask the gentleman my question, "May I make a simple phone call." He was quite happy to oblige; when my friend was not available more than an hour after he said he would be ready I was invited to take a seat and have a Pepsi, tea, etc.. We talked a bit, he offered me his cell phone such that we could continue to discuss outside with needing to head in, and we exchanged a bit about who we were. An American Jew and a Pakistani Muslim, it was beautiful, free flowing exchange of ideas and opinions.

Turns out the Aslam is a recent PHD graduate in Developmental Irrigation studies. Needless to say I began gnashing a bit on his ear. It's so wonderful to have someone with such specific interests to role on and on with my questions. He was pleasantly involved in the conversation as the night wore on. Eventually, my friend showed up at the gate because I learned how to SMS message on this gentleman's phone. And, off we went.

Last night's fortuitous meeting was yet another shinning example of the dynamic people, but I would also emphasis the hospitality. Everyone is warm and will offer themselves to assisting you. From directions to travel suggestions to food.

Life in this moment, is treating me exceedingly well, and I'm grateful.